Revitalizing my outdoor deck to improve its appearance
I closed on my first property in 2018 and was ready to take on some home renovations. I knew that the house had significant value-add opportunities so I was eager to get to work. One of the first orders of business outside was the deck. The deck at the back of the house was not in terrible shape, but it needed some sprucing up. Here is how I saved my existing deck and got it to a place where I know it will last for years to come.The best part was I was able to do it all myself on a budget.
Structural checks & improvement
We can start off with the structure. It’s important to check for rot in all of the beams, support posts, and stringers that make up the deck’s framing. If the wood is compromised or showing aging anywhere with the structure, it may be best to build an entirely new deck. In my case, the framing was constructed of pressure treated lumber and was less than 8 years old. I did not have to rebuild the deck’s main structure since the supporting lumber was still in good shape.
Even though the wood was solid, the deck still had an issue with the framing. It appeared to be lacking support posts in a few areas. Sometimes it’s possible to see sagging or movement when there is added weight on the structure. Using a level is the easiest way to check for misalignment and sagging. Cross members spanning over 10 feet did not have posts reinforcing them so I decided to add additional posts. I dug holes for the cement sonotubes under the supporting beams and mixed some bagged cement. After leveling and filling the tube with cement, I let it dry and came back the next day with some metal brackets and a 4×4 pressure treated post. Installing the posts was pretty easy and gave me more peace of mind when having lots of people or snow on the deck. Consult a structural engineer if you have any questions or concerns about the integrity of the deck framing. I have seen some decks rotted beyond repair and at risk of collapsing under the weight of a few people. With the structure secure, the next order of business was the decking.
Decking boards upgrade
The existing decking boards were standard wood planks painted a light gray. Since they were not pressure treated, rot was inevitable over time especially with the New England weather. The paint was peeling in many places and some boards were broken enough to have a chair leg fall through them. An appropriate solution here is to remove the old boards using a pry bar and reciprocating saw. Once the old decking is removed, we inspect the stringers and prepare to put down new synthetic decking. Synthetic decking is a great choice because of its durability, ease of maintenance, and long lifespan. If you don’t want to use synthetic decking, my recommendation is to use pressure treated deck boards and stain them to get the color that you want. Paint will require more maintenance over time since it will peel and need repainting. A quality stain will protect the wood for a long time and add nice color while still being able to show the wood grain. Stain needs to be reapplied every year or two so it isn’t maintenance free but still worthwhile for some decks.
For my project, I opted for Trex Enhance Basics in the Clam Shell color. This material is made from reclaimed wood and recycled plastic film. It is eco-friendly yet durable and easy to clean. This specific product also comes with a 25 year warranty for residential usage. If the boards become stained or the color fades, you can submit a warranty claim for replacement boards. This product is carried by Lowes and other big box retailers in many different colors, however the color I chose is one of the more common. For colors and sizes not available in the stores, you can most likely order them and have it shipped to the home or picked up in store. With the decking type and color selected, we want to consider one other point: the orientation of the boards. The boards need to go in the direction that they cross over the joists they attach to, obviously. However, some have the choice to go vertically or horizontally. If the boards are installed at a 45 degree angle, this can look really nice, but will involve more cuts. This can have an effect on cost since you may want to use shorter boards to save money. Decking boards typically come in lengths such as 8,12,16 and 20 feet with the longer boards costing more, sometimes disproportionately more. In my case, I installed the boards vertically and used ones that were 12 feet long. I cut about 3 inches off each for proper fitment which reduced the amount of wasted material. The border boards that span the perimeter of the deck have an important role. These boards hide the ends of the planks and increase the aesthetics of the deck significantly. The border also gives the deck a nice “picture frame” look that is appealing to the eye. This tactic applies to the stairs as well. An angle cut side piece of decking for each step can make a step look much nicer.
The new boards are attached with high quality steel screws with enough spacing between the boards to allow for melting snow and debris to pass through the deck.
I cannot emphasize the importance of spacing enough. If the boards are too close together, ice can get trapped and hold water on the deck which will freeze. This can create a slippery surface and damage decking boards. The deck can also puddle in the warmer months and stain the boards while promoting mold growth.
It is important to use proper screws since they are exposed to the elements as well as strong forces such as wind and heavy snow. I picked up a box of Grip Rite deck fasteners in the gray color to match the decking. These screws use a star drive bit which is easier than Philips head to install. The package comes with a bit so you don’t need to purchase one separately although I recommend getting a few extras in case one snaps. The screws feature a PrimeGuard coating with a lifetime guarantee for corrosion and rust. They are specifically designed to hold deck boards into stringers and include two sets of threads for a clean and secure look. 2 and ½ inch screws work best for most applications. The screws do not require pre-drilling of pilot holes but I marked and made holes so the screw placement looked even across the deck. Having the pilot holes let the screws go in with less effort. Set the clutch on your drill to stop once the head of the screw is tightly flush with the board. Driving the screw far into the board reduces the holding strength and makes an unsightly hole. Leaving the screw exposed at the surface is a trip hazard and the paint will wear off from foot traffic.
If you don’t want to use screws, there are hardware kits with hidden fasteners that clip into the side of each board. These look great but cost a bit more. Since this was a budget deck update, I chose to use the deck screws that go through each plank.
Replacing the decking alone made the deck look much nicer and cost less than $1,000 to do it myself.
Railings and handles
The railing from the stairs to all around the perimeter was also addressed. Constructed entirely of wood, it was still solid and did not need to be replaced. The paint was peeling in many areas so the decision here was to strip the old paint and repaint the railings white. Painting can be done faster with a sprayer or the standard way with a brush. Painting the railing before putting on the new deck boards would have prevented a lot of masking work.
If the railings are in poor shape, another option is to remove the railing sections but keep the posts at the ends. New vinyl railings can be installed with post jackets that slide over existing posts. The railing will look entirely new if this route is taken.
The next step was to increase the deck’s aesthetics with new features that it was lacking before. One of these items was the risers for the stairs. Rather than leaving the back of the steps open to see through, I added a white synthetic riser fascia board to modernize and neaten up the look. This cost less than $100 and was worth every penny. This fascia board is smooth on one side and has a wood grain look and texture on the other side. Since it is made of PVC, the board will not rot or require painting over time. It is lightweight and easy to cut with a circular saw, table saw, or even an oscillating multi-tool. This riser board is attached with white exterior screws to match the color. Multiple brands sell these PVC trim boards so they should be in stock at most home improvement stores.
Aesthetic improvements
The deck sits about four feet off of the ground so there was a large opening to the weeds and storage underneath it. I opted to cover the openings with white lattice and surround the sheets with PVC trimboard to complete the fit & finish. PVC is durable in all weather and you don’t have to worry about it rotting or being eaten by insects. I left the opposing side open since it just faces the neighbors garage and allowed for some access if I needed to go under the deck.
Final touches
Some final improvements are to install crushed stone or mulch to the area surrounding or underneath the deck. Grass that abuts the deck can be harder to cut or manage so creating stone or mulch beds around the perimeter is a nice touch. As we can see in this post, we could significantly increase the look and safety of our deck all for under $1,500.
